I considered going to a bullfight the evening of my arrival in Madrid because, as it turned out, that was the only scheduled performance during my visit. There are usually only 1-2 bullfighting events that run every week in the summer so choice is limited. Also, these bullfights typically go from 9pm till midnight and I was already struggling to stay awake from switching time zones.
After some prudent pondering, I decided to visit the bullring later in the week during daylight hours when I would be awake and be able to remember it =)
It turned out to be a wise decision because I not only got to learn about the sport of bullfighting but also an up-close view of the arena in which these challenges are held.
And what a beautiful complex it is! Rome has the
Colosseum while Madrid has
Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas.
There is a special entrance to the building for only those matadors (bullfighters) deserving the honor while the rest of the general public file through other doors. Some of these matadors, from the 1700s to current day, have impressive records -- such as the legendary
Pedro Romero (1754-1839) who killed 5,500 bulls in 28 years without suffering any personal injuries.
Life size bulls are on display to give spectators a sense of what the matador faces in the bullring. Each bull has a name, such as
Tiznolla who weighed 540 kg. Not exactly a challenger I would want to contend with in an enclosed area!
A reserved booth for the President of Spain is easily identified in the stands. It is from here that a signal is given to the matador below if his performance qualifies receiving the
ear of the bull.
I passed the door where the bull enters the arena. Waiting for the bull is said to be the time of highest tension for the bullfighter, for he knows his life hangs in the balance if he is not on top of his game.
To help them prepare, matadors will often spend time in an outdoor courtyard before they are called into the ring -- a quiet place for them to gather their thoughts and pray.
There is also an onsite infirmary close to where the matador enters the arena. No doubt, many a matador needed to be stitched up onsite because even a trip to the nearest hospital would take too long. An interesting sport, to say the least.
The museum at
Las Ventas displays many artifacts related to bullfighting over the centuries, including event posters and highly decorated legendary performer garments. No one would argue that the needlework to create these waistcoats and capes is truly impressive. One garment on display actually shows traces of the matador's fatal goring which ended the "Golden Age of Bullfighting" in the 20th century.
I was especially interested to learn that villages around Spain would setup impromptu bullrings in their streets to entertain local spectators and talent. Bullfighting is not only observed in the larger bullrings in cities, as I originally thought!
As I write this, the sport of bullfighting is losing its appeal especially with the younger generation in the 21st century. There is even talk of closing the doors of these events altogether. We'll see what the future holds for bullfights and those who believe it is an imperative component of Spanish culture.
