Laos, Very Familiar

Since Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos are in the same geographic region, with the Mekong River running through and bordering each, these countries inevitably share a similar heritage, language, religion and customs. Add to this the fact they were all governed by the French in the past few centuries and all experienced the travesties of the Vietnam War in the late 20th century. I am therefore not surprised that I found Laos 'very familiar'.

My experience in Laos was not all-that different from my visits to Vietnam and Cambodia or even living in Thailand. This was especially true when traversing the streets, markets and temples. Vendors along the streets and at the markets sell similar goods and the crowds flow through in similar forms of transportation.

I could easily find Som Tum (Papaya Salad), Moo Ping (Grilled Pork on skewers) and sticky rice that are all favorites from back home.

There were some differences at the vendor stalls, however, that no doubt reflected local taste. For instance, this is the first time I saw anyone skewer a bunch of shelled eggs and grill them over a BBQ. I have since learned these are not just ordinary eggs but the insides have been drained, mixed with spices and put back in the shell via a tiny hole to then cook over coals. Apparently they are very good once cooked and peeled. I wouldn't know because I couldn't get past the part where someone blows the inside of the egg out of the shell before funneling it back in =)

My visit to the Lao temple Pha That Luang reminded me of the many temples I've visited in this part of the world. At the same time, the architecture of this stupa is a bit different since it includes many references to Lao culture and has become a symbol of Lao nationalism, such as on its currency. The original structure was built in the 3rd century and has undergone many renovations since. Of course over the centuries this temple area has been the object of much looting during foreign invasions, no doubt attracting the attention of invaders with a gold-leaf covered exterior along with equally-ornate temples that surround it.

My visit to Laos was a good reminder that this country suffered through the Vietnam War since war operations easily crossed international borders. While I knew that Laos was involved in the war, I hadn't stopped to think that it also experienced the same political outcome as its neighboring countries. Not only did North Vietnam conquer South Vietnam in April 1975 but the communist were also victorious in Cambodia when the Khmer Rouge captured Phnom Penh on April 17th, as were the Pathet Lao successful in capturing Vientiane on December 2nd. Like Saigon, US civilian and military personnel were evacuated from Phnom Penh and the US diplomatic presence in Vientiane was downgraded and the number of US personnel was reduced.

I was reminded of the communist presence in Vientiane as I saw Soviet flags waving alongside the Laos flag. There were other reminders as well, such as the name of a restaurant called the Sputnik Burger.

Many who have traveled to Laos told me this country is like a blast from the past! Living in Vientiane is like living in the 1950s, except for the occasional ATM and air conditioned restaurant. There were definite signs of this especially when enjoying the 50s music in restaurants with songs like Twelve O'Clock Rock, My Girl, Love Potion Number 9, and songs by the Beatles. The thing is: these places weren't trying to imitate the 50s like diners back home... this was their regular fare!

My tuk-tuk driver told me that I just missed Vientiane hosting boat races down the Mekong; unfortunately I visited Laos a week too early. I was, however, around to witness the partying that went on as the event approached, including the (I counted) 10 songthaews carrying orange-cloaked monks headed to the celebrations. Good times had by all!