Rila Monastery

 

The most holy site in Bulgaria is the Rila Monastery located in the country's highest mountain range.  The founding of this place goes back to the 10th century by Saint John of Rila.  

Since that time, a protective bell tower, monastic cells and a temple were added.  

 

Upon arrival, my tour group was allowed to observe priests performing a ceremony that was, I presume, in celebration of Easter.  

As the saying goes, "A picture is worth a thousand words."  Well, the frescoes at the monastery definitely reveal a lot about orthodox theology, such as what happens to souls after death for believers, apostates, and non-believers alike.

Did you know that, according to what is depicted in a fresco as described by our guide, bankers don't have a chance to reach heaven after death?  I was struck by how much of what I saw in these depictions do not have Scriptural support.  

One only has to consider Matthew, one of Jesus' disciples, who was working as a tax collector in Capernaum when he was called to be a follower of Christ.  As is evident in his New Testament writings, Matthew placed his faith in Christ to obtain salvation.  There is no doubt he now resides in heaven with Christ. 

After explaining a number of frescoes on the exterior of the cathedral, our guide took us inside to see how it is also lavishly decorated and used by worshipers.  The cathedral is laid out in a 'cross' pattern with the center being the holiest spot.  It is here that Christ and angels hover above in pictorial form.

Again, contrary to what is taught in Scripture, we noticed those who believe they can light candles and pray for the salvation of others, go to candles at different levels.  Candles at 'shoulder-height' were used when praying for those who are still alive, while candles at a lower level were lit when praying for those who died and are in purgatory.

After visiting the cathedral, we were given time to roam the incredibly beautiful grounds.  There were booths selling food such as incredible warm donuts -- so good I had to take a picture of them -- along with religious merchandise for those wanting to take something home as a reminder of their time here.  

While Thailand has an incredible number of unaccounted-for dogs roaming the streets, I am told that cats have run of the streets in this part of Europe.  This was confirmed when noticing them roam all around the monastery.

It's easy to see how this beautiful campus became the center, especially during the Bulgarian Renaissance in the 18-19th centuries, preparing teachers and clerics to reach out to the rest of the country.

I came across an upper balcony shot of Rila Monastery courtyard in winter.  Quite a different feel to the place than my spring visit!

A Mountainous Medieval Retreat

It didn't take long when driving out of Sofia to get into the mountain range that stands nearby.  

I must admit it felt absolutely wonderful to be back in mountain terrain again.  I was often reminded of times driving with family in Austria with small towns dotting the hillsides.  Other times, I was reminded of my time living in both British Columbia and Colorado when observing the mountain peaks and forested valleys.

Part of the tour to the Rila Monastery was stopping in at a Bulgarian Orthodox church called Boyana Church.  Its original section was built in the late 10th century, with additional wings built in the 13th and 19th centuries.

The medieval church acts as a museum today, highlighting interior frescoes painted over 1000 years ago.  

I couldn't help but notice the small door that leads into the church.  The door is probably 2/3 the height of a standard door, apparently to 'force' those entering to bow out of respect.  I'm not sure exactly what/who they are to respect... if it's God, then I'm sure He would be honored if the person's heart bows at the same time as their body!

The door definitely looked as though it had seen some action.  Our guide confirmed these were bullet holes planted by Turkish soldiers from the days of the Ottoman takeover.  One can imagine how this church would have been an actual 'safe zone' for those wanting to escape the bullets from an advancing enemy.   

Visitors will also notice a grave prominently placed in the church yard.  This is the grave of Queen Elenora of Bulgaria who, during the Balkan and First World wars, nursed a great number of injured Bulgarian soldiers.  Her last wish was to be buried in the cemetery at Boyana.

This medieval church site remains a sanctuary in the serene mountainous countryside for visitors in today's world.  Not only is it a wonderful place for people looking to de-stress from daily life, but to be reminded of days gone by when others came looking for similar relief under very different circumstances!

Off to Bulgaria

The country of Bulgaria is directly north of Greece, so it made sense to drop in there while I was in the neighborhood.  My trip included spending a week in this EU country and even taking a day to head to North Macedonia that only took a few hours of driving west.

Admittedly, my first moments in Bulgaria were a bit rough for a number of reasons.  I was confronted with long lines at immigration, a disgruntled taxi driver picking me up at the airport when I was delayed, finding out at the hotel that my bank put a block on my credit cards without me knowing (of course), all after a long day of flights to my new home-away-from-home.  These issues didn't last long, thankfully, including the bank clearing the unnecessary block after I contacted them.  It was soon 'all systems go'.

After things settled down, it became evident that my time in Bulgaria would be wonderful.  I know this is a 'no kidding' comment, but I have to say that while Google Maps provides a great birds-eye view of locations and distances, there is nothing like walking the streets and seeing the city for yourself.  Not at all what you imagine from a map!

Sofia is a beautiful city with lots of history.  I'm sure the fact that I was there in spring with new leaves and flowers sprouting everywhere only enhanced its beauty.  

I stopped many times on my way to different sites, such as the time I stopped to marvel at the flowering vines on a corner of the King's Palace (later called the Tsar's Palace) that now serves as part of the National Art Gallery.  I couldn't stop taking pictures of this area!

 

I was able to visit some of the advertised highlights in Sofia including the Ivan Vazov Theater built in 1907 and adjacent park, all located a few blocks from my hotel.

Also within walking distance was the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, named after a key figure in early 13th century medieval Russian history.

In the same neighborhood stands the Byzantine 4th century St Sophia Church.  This church was built on the grounds of ancient churches and cemetery that existed before its time. 

Most visitors will walk by the 1914 Russian orthodox Church of St Nicholas on their way to various destinations because of its central location in the city.

Outside the front door of my hotel was the Cathedral Church.

As mentioned in a previous post, the oldest building in Sofia is situated in the courtyard of my hotel and could be seen from my window.  The 4th century St George Cathedral now belongs to the Bulgarian Orthodox Church.

Typical of ancient cities like Sofia are archeological discoveries found during construction of modern day amenities.  Such was the case with what is known as Ancient Serdica, the original name of Sofia and its ancient 5th century BC settlement discovered when constructing the city's metro.  

Sofia was not only about what I saw, but what I heard.  It was 'so typically European' to hear church bells ringing all around the city every morning at 8, and then for 10 minutes on Sunday morning.  

I couldn't miss the ringing bells since I had my window open the entire time I was in Europe.  The summer season has not officially arrived in April, so hotel air systems don't offer air conditioning... hence the open window to cool things down as best possible while also enjoying the sounds from the country of Bulgaria!