Oasis in Rural Thailand

One of my favorite nearby hangouts is called the UForest Cafe.  It's a beautiful 20 minute drive from my place to the interior of Rayong Province along narrow country roads.

Honestly, a person wouldn't expect such an amazing oasis in the middle of rural Thailand.  This certainly fits with what I've come to find in this country -- quite a few incredible restaurants and attractions located off the beaten path with virtually no advertising or even road signs to indicate their existence.

After awhile, you learn where these gems are hidden in your neighborhood.  Once you find them, it feels like you've made a real 'discovery' and have classified information that needs to be protected!  Obviously, I'm exaggerating but there is a sense of accomplishment when finally locating these places.

I've grown attached to the menu options along with a tranquil environment where I can work on my latest project I call the Scriptural Journal.  Besides the air conditioned restaurant inside, visitors encounter walking paths, waterfalls, kids play area and lots of places to relax the moment they head outside. 

UForest is a wonderful addition to the places I can go when wanting to go for a coffee, have lunch, work, relax and enjoy the outdoors at a moment's notice!

Remembering City Life

It's great to be able to head to the city of Bangkok every once in a while, to remember what city life is all about.  And then, typically, after 4-5 days I'm ready to come back to the quiet life I have on the Gulf of Thailand. 

This year, I decided to drive to the Hilton in the inner city just for a change of pace.  Typically, I drive to the suburbs where I then let a taxi deal with the traffic going into this city of 17 million.  

Well, I got my Christmas wish remembering what traffic is like as I drove along the numerous highways and byways to get to my destination.  And it didn't help that the traffic lights were not working at a major intersection about 2 blocks from my hotel.  Imagine 16 lanes of traffic trying to find its way through an intersection, all at the same time!  It's at times like this that you simply have to 'push through' the seeming parking lot of cars if you want any chance of getting to where you're going.  

I don't usually take pictures of my hotel room and post them, but this room surely met all expectations.  It was definitely a nice environment to relax after days enjoying the city!

I also took a picture from my hotel room to remind me of the neighborhood and the traffic that moves day and night.  Quite the different scene from life on the coast!

One advantage in coming to the city is meeting up with friends and heading to restaurants I don't find in the more rural parts of Thailand.  

Besides my Mexican and Lebanese favorites, I met a good friend at the Cheesecake Factory.  This was one of my absolute favorite restaurants when I lived in Denver Colorado some 30 years ago.  Needless to say, it was a wonderful discovery to find this restaurant in Bangkok with the same 20 page menu and dessert options.  It's like taking a flight back in time!  

You never quite know what you'll run into on the streets of Bangkok.  This year I came across what looked like a Chinese observance of Dongzhi that celebrates the winter solstice, having dragons move through the crowds at the famous Erawan Shrine.  Not sure exactly what the dragons represent, but it was interesting watching them move around!

I was also able to spend some time in Pattaya this year, a city roughly two hours south of Bangkok located along the coast.  I had only spent time there back in 2014 for a staff weekend, so I thought it would be good to reacquaint myself with that city and connect with some friends in that area. 

I heard that Pattaya is a place with a lot of foreigners but had no idea to what extent!  My hotel was in the city center and there were times I had to wonder if I was still in Thailand.  If it wasn't for meeting the occasional Thai worker, I could have imagined I was visiting some European or western country.

I'm back in Mae Phim as I write this.  While it was good to get a change of scenery this Christmas, I am glad to be back home.  No doubt I'll be ready to venture off again sometime in the new year, but am glad to lay low for awhile.  

Sketches of Skopje

When I was going through customs on my way from Sofia back to Bangkok, the customs official asked where I had been last.  I mentioned Greece, completely forgetting that I had a one-day trip to Skopje, North Macedonia from Sofia, Bulgaria.  He reminded me of the North Macedonian stamp in my passport and told me to move on.

I suppose I forgot we went to the neighboring country because it was such a short drive from Sofia to Skopje!  I am used to 60-hour drives from one major city to another within the same country of Canada... not 3 hours between two capitals of two countries.  

All the same, it was great to see what Skopje was all about before heading back to Thailand.

North Macedonia has so many similarities as Bulgaria such as the language and culture, but there were subtle reminders that we were in another country on the day of our tour. 

Besides the obvious in having to go through customs, our group had to adjust to a time change and different currency.  I found out all too soon that North Macedonians don't accept the Lev currency of Bulgaria or even the Euro used all over Europe!?  It's the Denari or nothing.

There are two main pedestrian walkways in Skopje that make it easy for visitors to navigate the old city center.  One walkway is the path along the Vardar River.  The other walkway takes pedestrians over an original stone bridge -- built during the Ottoman Empire around 500 AD -- connecting the Christian and Muslim sectors of the city.

On the SW side of the bridge is the most noticeably Christian European sector with its statues (made in Italy), fountains, classical buildings and paved town squares for people to congregate.  

Walking across the stone bridge to the NE sector gives pedestrians the immediate sense of entering an old section of a Muslim city like Istanbul.  Gone are the statues and proportioned building facades, replaced by a maze of meandering stone passageways that support typical ma-and-pa shops selling everything from lunch to clothing.  I'm sure it's a visual reminder of Skopje when the Ottoman Empire ruled this region.

It seems evident to me this region (now country) has been 'pushed around' geopolitically with a result of its citizens trying to stand firm to keep an identity. I could be wrong -- after all, I was here for a whole day -- but these are my first impressions.

I learned this region was subject to the Balkan War in the early 20th century and then was under Yugoslavian rule before gaining independence in 1991.  As a result, this region needed to redraw its boundaries with neighboring Balkan states of Serbia, Greece, Bulgaria and Montenegro. Through all of this, its people strived to live and develop as a free, unified and independent nation even into the early 2000s when it wanted to become part of the European Union.

This country was originally identified as Macedonia but was forced to change its name to North Macedonia to appease the Greeks who wanted to make sure the country to their north was not confused with its own Macedonian history and identity.  In the end, Macedonia changed its name so it could be voted into the EU. 

Like our local guide from Skopje told us, "Others can force us to change our name, but inside (as he pointed to himself) they can't take away who we are." It was interesting to see this Serbian struggle firsthand.

Rila Monastery

 

The most holy site in Bulgaria is the Rila Monastery located in the country's highest mountain range.  The founding of this place goes back to the 10th century by Saint John of Rila.  

Since that time, a protective bell tower, monastic cells and a temple were added.  

 

Upon arrival, my tour group was allowed to observe priests performing a ceremony that was, I presume, in celebration of Easter.  

As the saying goes, "A picture is worth a thousand words."  Well, the frescoes at the monastery definitely reveal a lot about orthodox theology, such as what happens to souls after death for believers, apostates, and non-believers alike.

Did you know that, according to what is depicted in a fresco as described by our guide, bankers don't have a chance to reach heaven after death?  I was struck by how much of what I saw in these depictions do not have Scriptural support.  

One only has to consider Matthew, one of Jesus' disciples, who was working as a tax collector in Capernaum when he was called to be a follower of Christ.  As is evident in his New Testament writings, Matthew placed his faith in Christ to obtain salvation.  There is no doubt he now resides in heaven with Christ. 

After explaining a number of frescoes on the exterior of the cathedral, our guide took us inside to see how it is also lavishly decorated and used by worshipers.  The cathedral is laid out in a 'cross' pattern with the center being the holiest spot.  It is here that Christ and angels hover above in pictorial form.

Again, contrary to what is taught in Scripture, we noticed those who believe they can light candles and pray for the salvation of others, go to candles at different levels.  Candles at 'shoulder-height' were used when praying for those who are still alive, while candles at a lower level were lit when praying for those who died and are in purgatory.

After visiting the cathedral, we were given time to roam the incredibly beautiful grounds.  There were booths selling food such as incredible warm donuts -- so good I had to take a picture of them -- along with religious merchandise for those wanting to take something home as a reminder of their time here.  

While Thailand has an incredible number of unaccounted-for dogs roaming the streets, I am told that cats have run of the streets in this part of Europe.  This was confirmed when noticing them roam all around the monastery.

It's easy to see how this beautiful campus became the center, especially during the Bulgarian Renaissance in the 18-19th centuries, preparing teachers and clerics to reach out to the rest of the country.

I came across an upper balcony shot of Rila Monastery courtyard in winter.  Quite a different feel to the place than my spring visit!

A Mountainous Medieval Retreat

It didn't take long when driving out of Sofia to get into the mountain range that stands nearby.  

I must admit it felt absolutely wonderful to be back in mountain terrain again.  I was often reminded of times driving with family in Austria with small towns dotting the hillsides.  Other times, I was reminded of my time living in both British Columbia and Colorado when observing the mountain peaks and forested valleys.

Part of the tour to the Rila Monastery was stopping in at a Bulgarian Orthodox church called Boyana Church.  Its original section was built in the late 10th century, with additional wings built in the 13th and 19th centuries.

The medieval church acts as a museum today, highlighting interior frescoes painted over 1000 years ago.  

I couldn't help but notice the small door that leads into the church.  The door is probably 2/3 the height of a standard door, apparently to 'force' those entering to bow out of respect.  I'm not sure exactly what/who they are to respect... if it's God, then I'm sure He would be honored if the person's heart bows at the same time as their body!

The door definitely looked as though it had seen some action.  Our guide confirmed these were bullet holes planted by Turkish soldiers from the days of the Ottoman takeover.  One can imagine how this church would have been an actual 'safe zone' for those wanting to escape the bullets from an advancing enemy.   

Visitors will also notice a grave prominently placed in the church yard.  This is the grave of Queen Elenora of Bulgaria who, during the Balkan and First World wars, nursed a great number of injured Bulgarian soldiers.  Her last wish was to be buried in the cemetery at Boyana.

This medieval church site remains a sanctuary in the serene mountainous countryside for visitors in today's world.  Not only is it a wonderful place for people looking to de-stress from daily life, but to be reminded of days gone by when others came looking for similar relief under very different circumstances!