July 18, 2019

Spanish Monasticism

El Escorial Monastery, or Monasterio del Escorial as Spaniards know it, is not only a monastery from the Order of Augustine but a former residence for the King of Spain. King Phillip II was the originator of this monastery, who designed it with the architect Juan Bautista de Toledo, as a monument to the country of Spain that held Christianity as the center of its world.


This complex was built in the 16th century and is said to be "one place where religion and government found common ground." Augustinian monks continue to reside in this complex that has also served as basilica, royal palace, pantheon, library, museum, university, school and hospital, all symmetrically located around an interior courtyard and basilica. While El Escorial still serves as a monastery, royalty has since moved to the Royal Palace in Madrid in the 18th century and then to the outskirts of the city in the 20th century.


 High altar in the Basilica

The Basilica had Sunday mass in session the entire day we visited, every hour on the hour. Those in charge of the mass did allow us to go in eventually if we promised to be quiet. While waiting, I noticed the statues of King Solomon from the Bible and other notables including royalty and saints displayed near the entrance of the cathedral.



As per usual, cameras were not allowed when entering these buildings but I was able to draw from internet sources.

Who would not be impressed by the library on the upper floor that held copious volumes from over the centuries -- including a Bible written in the 16th century? The Biblical text was written on calfskin vellum in two columns with rich red, blue, and gold embellishments in geometric and floral motives. The design of the library is divided into seven sections reflecting the seven areas of academia. El Escorial was the first public library open to residents in Spain and is still in operation today!



We learned that most Spanish royalty over the past 500 years have been buried directly below the Basilica's high altar, so our group trekked 82 steps to the basement to see this for ourselves. We saw the tombs and coffins from the time of King Charles, having kings located on one side of the room and queens who bore their king an heir on the other.

Marble tomb stones in another area identified 'other important persons', such as wives of kings who did not bear an heir, children who died at a young age, etc. One area we did not visit (thankfully) was the Rotting Room where the dead are placed and reduced to bones over a period of 30-40 years; once bodies were reduced, their bones were then placed in their proper coffin.

While touring the interior, our group observed the residence of King Philip II situated next to the main altar of the Basilica. His residence was strategically located so the king could observe mass from his bed when he was incapacitated by gout.

The queen's quarters in an adjacent room had an organ with short octaves, typical of instruments in that era. We could also see corridors from both the king and queen's rooms to the Basilica so they could easily enter the cathedral to receive mass. Most of the interior at El Escorial Monastery holds original 16th century artifacts, tapestries, murals, renaissance paintings, marble floors and ornate wooden doors donated by guests.


All in all, I found this monastery proved to be the 'monument to Christianity' that King Philip II intended back in the 16th century. It's an amazing tribute to God and His creation, for it certainly displays His provision of needed skills, abilities and resources to produce such an edifice.