November 21, 2009

Sunday Afternoon at the Tombs

It is no secret that I am a lover of history, regardless of country or era. When my friend Hyong asked whether I was interested in visiting tombs in Gongju last Sunday afternoon, I hesitated a bit because I thought we would have to travel great distances. I didn't realize that Gongju is a neighboring city, a perfect impromptu Sunday afternoon trip only 30 minutes by car.

Hyong told me there are two parts to this historic Songsan-ri Burial Mounds site: outdoor exhibition grounds showing the locations of seven tombs and the Gongju National Museum holding the artifacts found in these tombs. How fascinating to walk among the actual tomb sites of Kings and Queens, observing relics of the Baekje period (one of three dynasties in Korean history when Gongju was its capital).




The tomb of King Muryeong (reign 462-523) is of particular interest because this is one of the few tombs with an inscription, providing us an accurate account of the person entombed and date of burial. Apparently this tomb (number 7) was discovered accidentally when installing pipes to prevent other tombs (numbers 5 and 6) from being flooded.

The tomb of King Muryeong is unusual in its brick structure and that it contained 108 kinds of artifacts inside. As the picture shows, the tomb is shaped like a long tunnel with dome ceiling and pictures of fire-breathing dragons, white tiger, red peacock and black turtle on the walls. The wall paintings are considered an impressive discovery and attraction at Songsan-ri Burial Mounds because this type of art work, that uses brick in its design, is the only art of its kind in the world.




On a personal note, I felt quite honored that two employees with their limited English gave me a personally guided tour around the museum, most likely because I was a rare foreigner on the premises. Another example of the friendly Korean people and their consideration to foreigners; typical here in Korea except maybe on the highway =)



Some of the artifacts found in the tombs (and now in the museum) include the crowns worn by the King and the Queen, gold decorations for the crowns, gold earrings, necklaces, bronze mirrors, head and foot pillows, pottery and even a Queen's tooth! It was from this tooth that they were able to verify the time period of the tombs. Let's not forget the stone pig that stood inside the entryway of King Muryeong's tomb and was debilitated with an inoperative hind leg so it would not venture off leaving the tomb unguarded.